From Propagation
to The Cup
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Propagation
It is possible
to propagate
coffee plants
from cuttings or
shoots, yet most
commercial
growers choose
to start new
trees from seeds
selected from
trees of known
quality,
productivity,
and longevity.
As seedlings
grow, great care
must be taken to
keep the soil
moist and weed
free. Within
four to eight
weeks, leaves
will appear and
develop.
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These leaves,
orelbas de onca,
"panther ears"
as the
Brazilians call
them, are a
signal to the
planters that
the seedlings
are ready to be
transplanted to
the nursery.
Soldado:
A Latin American
word used to
describe
sprouting coffee
because of the
similarity to a
soldier standing
at attention
capped by a
helmut-like
bean.
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Seedlings
Protected from
the intense
tropical sun by
large shade
trees, the
seedlings are
transplanted
into beds or
containers which
are raised above
normal soil
level to
encourage
thorough
drainage.
In this
protected
nursery
environment, the
new coffee
plants are
nurtured from
nine to eighteen
months, reaching
a height of
about 24 inches.
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The growers'
conscientious
regimen of
gradual exposure
to more and more
sunlight hardens
the young
plants, greatly
reducing the
chance of shock
when they are
transplanted to
the plantation
proper.
Nearly all of
the arabica
trees in the
world today,
except those of
Africa and
Yemen, can trace
their lineage
back to a single
coffee seedling
smuggled to the
New World in
1723.
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Harvesting
During the
harvest season,
whole families
turn out and all
hands join in
the work. The
Colonos, the
Brazilian term
for coffee
pickers,
carefully select
only the fully -
ripened fruit
leaving any
unripe fruit for
a second, third,
or fourth visit
over the four to
six month
harvest season.
A good picker
can harvest as
much as 200
pounds of fruit
each day, the
equivalent of 50
to 60 pounds of
coffee beans.
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Cafe de Panno:
Term used in
Brazil for
coffee picked in
the cloth; i.e.,
a cotton sheet
is spread on the
ground under the
trees. The fruit
is then allowed
to ripen and
fall to the
sheet, never
touching the
ground.
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The Cherry
The bright red
coffee cherry is
beautiful to
all, but in the
eye of the
grower it
represents years
of work. In the
cherry, he sees
the result of
his toil. The
coffee cherry --
actually a
casing for the
coffee seed or
bean -- has four
layers. The
first is the
bright red outer
husk, followed
by a layer of
sweet pulp and
then a tough
skin called the
"parchment."
Under this lies
one last thin
membrane know as
the "silver
skin," and then
the bean itself.
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Now the cherry
is ready for
further
preparation --
by one of two
common methods.
Aged coffee:
A coffee held in
the green bean
or dried
parchment stage
for 1 to 7 years
in well
ventilated
warehouses,
usually in the
country of
origin. This
process gives
beans a less
acidic taste and
a syrupy
richness of
body. Roasted
coffee is never
aged.
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Sorting
With a blend of
modern
machinery,
skill, patience
and deft hands,
coffee is
prepared for the
world market.
The removal of
the husks and
parchments is
done with
machines
specifically
designed for
this purpose. It
is then followed
by separation
into five or
more grades by
running the
beans through
sieves and
screens with
specifically -
sized holes. The
traditional
practice of
manual sorting
is accomplished |
with amazing
speed and skill,
and any flawed
or
discolored beans
are removed
before bagging
into sacks
marked with
grade,
plantation, and
country of
origin. The
coffee is then
ready for its
journey to
distant cups.
Cafe
Bonifleur:
Term from the
French West
Indies applied
to coffee which
has been
thoroughly
cleaned and
polished. So
called because
the polishing
machine used is
called a
bonifleur
(improver).
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Preparation
After sorting
out any unripe
coffee or
foreign matter
during field
harvesting, the
coffee cherry is
ready for one of
two most
commonly used
methods of
preparation.
The wet or
"washed" method
is used in areas
where there is
an abundance of
fresh water. The
gathered
cherries are
poured into
large,
water-filled
tanks to soften
the outer skins
before they are
removed by
pulping
machines. The
resulting
"parchment" is
then washed and
left to soak
from hours to
days, dependent
upon altitude
and location.
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Following this
soaking period,
known as
"fermentation,"
the coffee is
thoroughly
washed and then
moved to the
drying terraces.
Cafe
Pergamino,
also known as
parchment
coffee, is said
to be "in the
parchment" when
dried, after the
outer skin and
pulp have been
removed by
water. Some
European markets
require coffee
exported to them
in this manner.
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Drying
The dry or
natural method
is the oldest
and simplest
method of
preparation, and
three fifths of
the world's
coffee is still
prepared in this
manner.
Harvested
cherries are
laid out on cane
matting or brick
patios under the
hot sun where
they are then
raked and turned
several times a
day to ensure
even drying. The
success of this
method is
largely
dependent upon
the continuance
of clear, warm
weather for the
two to three
weeks required
to thoroughly
dry the
cherries.
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On larger
plantations or
co-ops, drying
machines are
common,
shortening the
drying time of
parchment coffee
to 24 to 36
hours. Now the
coffee is ready
for polishing
and sorting.
Beneficio,
a Mexican term,
is the
preparation area
on a plantation
where the drying
terraces,
fermentation
tanks, washing
vats, and
warehouses are
located.
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Shipment
From storage in
great, covered
warehouses where
they have been
neatly stacked,
the bagged
coffee beans are
moved by
conventional
transportation
to the docks.
There,
stevedores
experienced in
the careful
handling of
coffee, see that
the bags are
properly stowed
aboard ship. In
the hold, the
bags are layered
in tiers,
separated by
wooden battens
or pallets to
assure abundant
air circulation
throughout the
voyage.
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More than one
third of the
world's coffee
is addressed to
the United
States, followed
by the Federal
Republic of
Germany.
Mocha:
Formerly
important coffee
port on the
coast of Arabia,
closed by a
sandbar over 100
years ago. Only
coffees grown in
Arabia are
entitled to the
trade name
"mocha." Coffees
are now shipped
through the
ports of Hodeida
and Aden. Mocha
beans are small,
smooth, and
delicious in
flavor.
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Roasting
The modern
machines for
roasting coffee
evolved from
crude stone
vessels used
around 1200 A.
D., through the
first
cylindrical
designs about
1650, to the
computerized
roasters now
used by the
major coffee
companies. Yet
in the 900 years
or so that
coffee has been
roasted, the
basic concept
remains the
same, create a
flavorful,
evenly - roasted
bean from the
green coffee of
the fields.
Simply put, the
beans are heated
in a revolving
cylinder to a
temperature of
about 430
degrees
Fahrenheit, or
200 degrees
Centigrade for
the length of
time it takes to
achieve the
desired flavor.
Delightfully,
the kinds of
roasts are as
varied as human
taste.
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City
Roast:
Term indicating
medium dark
roasted coffee.
Full City
Roast:
Term applied to
roasted coffee
slightly heavier
than a city
roast. The beans
are roasted to
their "full"
development.
French
Roast:
Beans that are
roasted high
enough to bring
the natural oil
to the surface.
Italian
Roast:
Coffee that has
been roasted
darker than
French Roast.
Much used by
Italians and
coffee producing
countries.
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